WHEELS AND TIRES

PREMATURE 4X4 FRONT HUB FAILURE – FORD SUPER DUTY



PREMATURE 4X4 FRONT HUB FAILURE – FORD SUPER DUTY – discussion about what can be done to help make the front 4×4 hubs last longer

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  1. just an FYI. if your hubs are not locked, the axle sub just sits on the inner bearing. when the hubs are engaged and axle is actually turning, then the sub rides on the inner bearing. just wanted to correct that little bit of misinformation. Those of you driving around with your hubs locked and 4WD disengaged, your axles are still turning and actively riding on that inner bearing. People will do this while plowing because they don't want to get in and out of there truck to lock and unlock hubs because vacuum lock system isn't working. You will cook the inner bearings regardless of the amount of grease if you drive at highway speeds with hubs locked. the inner bearing are not designed for highway speeds. these are not sealed bearings.

  2. the hubs are about 200 on amazon. can completely redo the entire front drivetrain with seals and bearing for about 700 dollars on amazon. Including new auto locking hub assemblies. Just takes a lot of work and a special tool you can rent to get the job done.

  3. I own a 2012 Impala, and I own a 99 Suburban, that belongs in a grave yard. Yet, this is so interesting, I have to keep watching these videos. I adore Ford trucks. Wait till I hit Powerball!

  4. Yet another shit system of Fords. My whole fleet of f150s have had the Vac 4wd systems all had issues with the lines cracking which would in some cases thrash the hubs. Great job Ford motor company.

  5. It's a bad design Ford developed. Jeep with AWD affords towing at 45 mph. Tires have to be the same thickness on most 4x4s. Anyway, your fortunate if that's all that happened in three years with truck.

  6. Dynatrac free spin best money you will ever spend, all the guys talking about my Jeep don't need a unlock blah blah blah , the reason to have the option unlocking the front axle is fuel mileage unlocked means less drag and it does make a huge difference, and no the pinion doesnt disconnect the transfer case disengages the front driveshaft

  7. No offense, just playing the devils advocate here. After doing some thinking on using a penetrating oil to lube the hubs…seems to me that it may eventually penetrate all those seals and cause a leak when you go to use the hub and won't pull a vaccum. I believe it to be a good idea to lube the hubs in this way, but I went with a light weight(80w) gear oil instead. I'll report back if I encounter any problems.

  8. 11:08 “Don’t be havin your wife send me pictures that you’re a crazy person out here doing these things….be emailing me how her husband has lost his mind since he started watching my videos. Seriously guys….”

    Bill is straight-up the baddest dude on YouTube. I wish he was my dad.

  9. I have a 2003 f250 4×4 my mechanic replace the front wheel driver side Bering and I’m not a mechanic but it fills the truck is driving a little stiff, like I’m pulling a small trailer. I told him about that he stop by. Since he replaced one side only, he said the wheel will rotate a little stiffer then the another one, is that right? And he mention that he put a moog brand

  10. Ive been told living up here in the North that you should in fact leave your hubs engaged all winter. Something to do with the seals and cold weather and rely on your swof only to engage the center diff and transcase? Any truth to this? My dealer said seals get replaced on these trucks almost every 2 years in severe climate

  11. The bearing manufacturer has changed the inner axle spindle bearing roller cage from metal to plastic. The plastic gets hot, melts, the rollers and can then actually stop the wheel. What is the savings???? Is it worth it ?

  12. Is this happening to 2008-2010 Ford Expeditions as well ?
    My wife is complaining about humming noise coming from the front end, which goes away when she switches to 4×4.

  13. The hubs dials themselves are another problem area. There is an aluminum permeable material on the end of the hand piece/dial. It is there to relieve air pressure for the vacuume portion of the hub, but it also allows moisture into the dials and can crust everything up. You can punch through the center with a small punch/screwdriver to disassemble the outer hub (once off the vehicle) clean and reassemble. Put a dab of grey silicone over the hole you've made.

  14. I have use that PB garage door lubricant then did white lithium after the doors were free and working. It has 1 year since and the Garage door is still as quite as a church mouse. Before they were so loud they would wake the dead.

  15. My 99 had a knob. My 02 has a lever. The vacuum on the 99 worked for 2 years. I had it fixed under warranty one time. Fixed one time myself. I finally gave up. Lol.

  16. Love my 2000 7.3, manual hubs all the way for sure. Much rather hop out and take 12 steps then to worry about vacuum hoses, vacuum leeks, sensors and so on. All these parts and there ongoing costs just to eliminate getting out of the truck for less then 30 seconds. Hmmmm.
    So if the auto 4×4 breaks, I bet the time spent fixing things would be greater than just locking them in manually.
    Save some money, buy some boots, lock em in!

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