Roll Cage 101

When I first started the Scorpion Crawler build I didn’t know much about roll cage design, but I learned a lot on the way. In this video I’ll share with you 17 tips to build a better roll cage.

Roll Cage 101:

•Roll Cage Design depends on your specific sport.
•If you intend on racing, get SCORE book or build for your specific racing guidelines.
•Don’t build a roll cage just to protect the body… that is not a roll cage, a roll cage is for the occupants safety.

•Welded (aka) HREW
•DOM- Drawn over Mandrel 2x the cost of HREW

•1.75” .120 wall standard for Jeeps/Buggy’s

•Triangles are used on bridges for a reason, use triangles, not fancy curves or plain squares.
•Avoid Bends, if you have to make a bend, think about a support at the apex of the bend.
•A tube should never end at a T on another tube, an impact will just bend the other tube.
•Gusset corners with triangle plates or an A shape of tube for strength.
-What is an A,B,C, and D pillar?
•Try and keep A&B pillars vertical and top leaned back too far… which will weaken the structure.
•Ingress and Egress
•An inverted V is the strongest type of windshield spreader.
•The B hoop should have an X in it for support and a horizontal bar for your harness.
•The top of the harness bar should be about level with the top of your shoulders for safety.
•If you have multiple joints coming together, weld each tube first before adding the next tube.
•Attach seat belts and seats to the roll cage, especially if the roll cage is not welded to the frame.
•Consider bars over your head in case of a rollover onto rocks and trees but also keep plenty of headroom.
•Consider what will happen if you pass out and arms and legs start flailing.
•All tubes should ultimately connect to the frame OR be welded to sandwiched plates to a solid point on the body.
•If welding to the frame, consider a landing plate to increase weld area and strength.
•Tube splices should always be sleeved and rosette welded, not just butted together.
•Put thought into impacts and try to visualize where the stresses will travel.

SCORE Rulebook:

You’ll also need a:
Tubing Bender:
Tubing Notcher:

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*This product is meant for entertainment purposes only. Your mileage may vary. Do not try this at home. Void where prohibited. Some assembly required. For off-road use only. Slippery when wet. Batteries not included. Do not use while operating a motor vehicle, heavy equipment, cherokee XJ, wrangler TJ, wrangler JK, or any Jeep vehicle, especially the newer Fiat ones. How-to videos may be too intense for some viewers and children under 30 years of age. Please remain seated until the 4×4 ride has come to a complete stop. Studies have shown viewing these videos causes increased cancer risks in laboratory test people. I am not a professional, I have no training, I’m not even particularly good at horse whispering. Don’t believe everything that you know. Please keep your hands in the vehicle at all times. Do not tap on glass. Do not eat anything that has been on the floor for more than 3 days. Keep your hands to yourself. Not to be taken internally. Reproduction strictly prohibited. Driver does not carry cash. Objects in Bleepinjeep mirrors may be farther than they appear.*



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  1. Matt this is a great video very informative. You showed us how to plate the frame at attachment points,but could you also show the best way to transition from frame to cage . looks like you went from frame to tub to cage? Thanks Matt

  2. Dude, DOM is just ERW tube that is then drawn over a mandrel, there IS a weld seam, CDS, cold drawn seemless, does not have a seam, there are also two kinds of ERW, cold rolled and hot rolled. Whats more important is the alloy of the tube, and design

  3. One of your best videos I need to make a cage when building my XJ. Most people I've talked to say do a combo of internal and external cage do you think this is best?

  4. this is a huge help – very clear and concise – the illustrations and teaching aides helped make the points easy to remember- thanks!

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