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89 Daihatsu HiJet Mini Truck Project and DIY Auto Body And Paint Q&A!



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Check out my new ’89 Daihatsu HiJet Mini Truck. Check out the video as my daughter Mayah demonstrates how to turn the back from a basic pickup into a flat bed. The load on the back holds up to 1500 pounds. It’s pretty cool.

I paid $2500 for the truck, which I imported from Osaka, Japan. Then, paid $1500 for shipping to Galveston, Texas and another $200 for customs. They have to inspect it and issue a customs clearance. There was also an additional $100 for storage fees because I couldn’t get it immediately. Lastly, another $250 to bring it over to my place. So, I’m in it for about $4600.

When I did my research, they are selling this locally at $8000 to $1000 with higher mileage. This truck has only 90,000 kilometers on it, which is basically 6,000 miles so it has very low mileage.

For the $4600 that I paid for, I get a nice little truck. It’s classic and unique. I’m pretty sure that I’ll get this registered on the road since it’s 25 years old, so it doesn’t have to be DOT approved. It should be pretty easy.

I need to get it insured with Progressive then have it registered. This is not for highway-use. You can’t go 80 miles in a highway with it. If you get in a crash, it will be probably be deadly. The truck is only good for “around the corner” use.

We’ll make the truck awesome, do a build on it, probably put some bigger tires and have a cool two-tone or three-tone custom paint on it with graphics.

Question: What advice can you give for painting over single-stage?

Basically, sand it down and you can paint right over it. You can paint right over single state with base coat clear coat or another single stage paint without getting any reactions.

Question: I painted a fender with paint that is color matched at a paint store. It still appears darker especially in sunlight. Any tips or tricks to better match with blending to other panels?

You need to buff out the unpainted panels like in my BMW Project, where I did the fender but I didn’t do the door or the quarter panel.

There’s probably a little color match difference, so I’m going to buff all this out, your adjacent panels with a good buffer, good compound and good glaze. Buff it out and it will brighten your older panels to match the new.

That’s what you should do. It gets close enough to where other people will not notice it. You might notice it a little bit because you worked on the car, but other people won’t have a clue.

Question: What grit should I sand a peeling clear coat and what kind of primer do I use to do a base coat clear coat?

You can sand it out with a 320-grit. Depending on how bad it is, you can use from 280-grit to 360-grit. After that, you want to prime it and get everything flat and hit it with 400-grit. You can water sand or dry sand.

I like to end my prep with 400-grit wet sand, because I feel like I get a nicer, cleaner cut. I might do a 400-grit dry sand on a machine to cut it quick and then wash it with 400-grit wet sand with my hand.
Then, paint with your base coat clear coat right on top of that.

Question: My Yukon that we talked about last week with the bad clear, do I sand it all down and re-prime or just sand it with 400-grit?

I would prime what you feathered out and then 400-grit wet sand and you’re all good, because if you paint right over that, you’ll see a little line in your final product.

Question: Painting with black always makes me get runs. How can I stop that even if I use a low amount of paint?

You get runs because you don’t have your painting flow correct. You need to make sure you are at a certain distance from your car and you’re moving at a constant speed all the time, especially when you’re clear coating.

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7 Comments

  1. Tony my work hrs don't let me see your broadcast live so I don't get a chance to ask questions. Is there anywhere in VIP that I can ask questions? I'm going be starting a project soon and your input or others will help.

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